Agadir to Lanzarote (February 2008)

Agadir to Lanzarote – our first passage without the assistance of a skipper – a big step for anyone sailing off the coast of Africa for about 240 nautical miles into the Atlantic ocean – at least we think so. The planning had been done for a while with the waypoints marked on the charts and entered into the chart plotter well ahead of time. We were then just looking for the weather window to suit us for a 48 hour sail (5knots planned).

The preparation for the trip was reasonably easy as we were well provisioned so it was really just topping up water and fuel. You would think that was easy but on the Tuesday we set off to the fuel dock – about a 100 meter trip across the marina, like any trip, was faced with trepidation – will I get the boat out of the pontoons without damaging it, will I dock at the fuel dock without damaging it? All went smoothly going out and coming alongside the fuel dock when the attendant told me I had to turn it and back it into the fuel dock just to increase the degree of difficulty. Again all went well there as well – all with a bit of nervous sweating on my behalf. Well we filled up with about 460l of gasoil (diesel) which was quite cheap at about 0.73 Euros a litre but as the attendant took the hose out the chain on the fuel cap broke and it went to the bottom of the marina. We closed of the fuel tank using a water cap wondering where we were every going to get a replacement before heading off later in the week.

After returning to our pen and tying up, I asked the harbour assistant where I could buy one, and after some sign language, poor attempts at French on my behalf, I think he understood what we wanted and said he would ask his boss and get back to me tomorrow….. So we taped the water tank filler closed with gaffer tape not holding any hope on getting a replacement.

But next day, the assistant catches up with us as we are riding back to the boat and said for 200MAD (basically the cost of the air) Fernando – his boss – will dive and find the original cap. Making sure that he could do it before we leave on Friday we agree to this with some degree of scepticism. Next morning, Fernando and his assistant pick me up from the boat and drove me round to the fuel pontoon and Fernando went diving. After two attempts – the second by gloved hands due to poor visibility Fernando came up with our fuel cap – certainly cheaper than buying a new one and having it flown in, but a bit of a gamble that paid off. Once fuelled it was just a matter of waiting for the weather and Friday morning we tentatively set off to sea at 11:15 and said goodbye to Agadir and Morocco for now.

The sea was calm but the fishing fleet was out,

so it was dodgems’ for the first 3-4 miles before we put the sails up and pretended to be sailors (motor sailing until about 11:00 pm). See if you can spot the Fishing bouy in the photo – a hint it is blue……

When this was done we had our first pod of visitors. Unlike those on our way down from France, these guys seems to get bored easily and would only swim with us for 10 minutes at the most – but that was long enough to really enjoy their beauty.

The trip was pretty uneventful – periods of calm, periods of good sailing up to 7.5knots and we had to manage our speed to ensure our passage plan was met – 48hours at an average of 5knots to get us into Rubicon at lunchtime with room on either side if something goes wrong or right. To do this we varied how we sailed, using reefs to slow us down and then regeneration with the motors to slow us further. This gave us time to work out our systems and rosters and that scrambled eggs is a good passage food. With only the two of onboard, we could be more flexible and it was more comfortable in the way we approached watches. I found this a bit more relaxing, whilst the pressure of being in charge of Where II for the first time alone was always in the back of my mind.

We first saw the lights of Arriciffe just before dawn and turned south on course for the last coastal leg of the journey. We rounded Papapaygu , and after a little confusion correlating the pilot to what lay ahead of us (despite Karen's computer skills), we sited Marina Rubicon at Playa Blanca, Lanzarote.

We made the call to the Marina staff to request permission to enter the harbour – to which they answered “of course, come on in” – just a bit quicker than what we experienced at Safi in Morocco. We rounded the mole with 2 meter swell going across what appeared to be a 7.6m harbour entrance (bear in mind Where II is 7.5m wide) with waves crashing on the rocks on either side. But the approach was textbook and I tied up like a pro with Karen handing the ropes to the Marina staff from the deck all the time being watched by damn tourists trying to figure out what our flag was. After a quick check in, with staff organising custom formalities for the next day, we proceeded to our pontoon- again a perfect parking job in a 9-10m wide berth next to the Sunsail school. While we thought that the trip was calm enough, there was at least one individual on the boat that thought the seas were a bit rough – the stow away squid on the fore deck – this changed Karen’s view on calamari.

Our Canarian adventures were about to start.    

COMMENT:
AUTHOR: Mark Bloodworth
DATE: 3/18/2008 10:38:29 PM
Matt.. Loved it! What a pro. I've only read this article but will get to the others over easter. Keep up the work blogging as it terrific to hear the detail of your adventure.
Loved the cap rescue... different values!
may the wind continue to fill your sails!!!! all the best Mark

Agadir Morocco - Will we stay or will we go?

Agadir - nice easy place. We are staying on a five star marina which unfortuately has only 3.5 stars constructed but those three and a half are fantastic. The Marina facilities are good, very easy to get in and out of and the staff are great. The retail here is growing with work on a number of stores happening and I believe that by summer this place will attract a lot of cruisers.


We were planning to only spend two days in Morrocco as we said but Agadir was too nice to leave. As I am sure will be the case on numerous occasions when we find somewhere nice - the question is - will we stay or will we go?

We have relaxed, sailed past the King's new residence and had lunch just off his beach, spent 400MAD (Moroccan Dirham) at the Casino - apparently Karen doesn't always win, worked on the web site and generally had a good time.  We enjoyed a superb meal (with a superb rochefort sauce on my steak) for Valentine's Day at Les Blancs - Agadir on the Marina (tel:028828393 for reservations).

It is a non- threatening envrionment - with one exception.....

This morning at some ungodly hour - which we thought we would not see again while on land (7:00am) we were awoken by the sound of voices at the back of the boat. The next we hear someone walking on our deck. I got up and pulled on some trousers and went up stairs to find a women sitting in the cockpit and the night watchman on the pontoon. The woman was speaking Berber and I could not understand a word she said.

The night watchman hurried off to get the police as the woman would not leave - eyeing off our new tagines that Karen had been seasoning. On arrival the woman promptly explained that she was with me and that we had a fight. Through our translator the watchman I explained thatwas not the case as my wife was below in bed! After trying to coax the woman off the bed, the policeman had to forcably remove her and came back later to apologise.

After this and the reality of us avoiding the first unaccompanied trip, we decided to leave Agadir when the weather permitted. I will miss the magic of this place tho'.



COMMENT:
AUTHOR: Penny O'Loughlin
DATE: 4/1/2008 2:29:24 AM
Hi Karen & Matt,
Looks like you are having a fantastic time- even if strange Moroccan women are trying to hitch a ride with you!! Sorry I haven't written earlier- but will stay tuned in to your blog's for updates. (the site is great & Morocco looks amazing!)
We have just finished the GP at home, so things are starting to quieten down a little- which is good.
My friends and I were recently discussing Morocco as a travel destination, so I have forwarded your site to them, so they can have a look at where you have been and what it's like and we can then discuss. You do make it look very appealing, - except for the wandering women!!!!
Travel safely,
Wishing you all the very best on the rest of your travels,
Penny
The greenevent gang says a big hello. xoxo

COMMENT:
AUTHOR: kathy
hi just to tell u i go to agadir twice a year it is so nice,the local people never hassle u and i always have a great time

Marrakesh Feb 2008

We hired a car and drove the 4 hours from Agidir in our luxurious Fiat Uno (no radio or Aircon).  Tim drove the first part, through the mountains and into the desert, and videoed the trip at the same time.  I was glad to be in the back seat.
The scenery was amazing and full of contrasts.  We saw lots of goats, (they love to climb trees), sheep, donkeys and camels.  And believe it or not in the middle of the desert there is snow atop of the Atlas mountains.

 

Matt took over the driving after lunch and was fined 400 MAD for an imaginary red light coming into Marrakesh.  The police eventually settled for 100 MAD after they laughed and said 400MAD was too much????
Tim and I had read the Lonely Planet accommodation recommendations and both agreed that the Authors Choice at 274 - 320 MAD sounded great.  We found a park outside the city walls after doing lappys of the roundabout and trying to loose the tout on a motorbike who would take us to his friends hotel.  After a few wrong turns we found the Riad, and were welcomed by the friendly staff with free tea and biscuits.  The Riad was a luxurious Moroccan house, but unfortunately the Lonely Planet prices were in Euros, not Dirham, so was way out of our budget. (over A$500 per night each room, and we were paying for Tim's room as part of our deal)


The staff were really helpful and suggested another Riad in our price range, rang & booked our rooms, and told us the easiest way to find it was for one of us to take a taxi there, and the others to follow with the car.
Tim set off in the Taxi, and we followed up and down tiny streets, getting caught behind Donkeys and carts, when he jumped out and told us to park as the Taxi driver had to drop his mum off and they would come back for us.  15 minutes later we had a man knocking on our windows wanting to get into our car, but it turned out to be the cabby, so we set off on our crazy drive again.  Matt is getting to drive too much like a local, and now plays cat and mouse with other drivers, buses or donkey carts, and wants to go first all the time.  We eventually arrive in the plaza to meet the Raid owner, Tim dismisses his cab and we are taken up a laneway and told to park the car. 
We follow the owner on foot up and down laneways to the Riad, sure we will never find the car again!  The Riad is lovely and clean and very Moroccan, and the owners and staff very friendly. 

We showered and changed and decide to walk to Djemaa el-Fna, the night market were we are sure to be entertained by snake charmers, jugglers, storytellers, musicians and general idiots.
Just leaving the Riad for the nearest intersection was a puzzle.  Tim suggested breadcrumbs so we would find our way back in.  Walking around Marrakesh with a Lonely Planet is a sure sign you are not on a guided tour, and makes you prey to all the young boys who volunteer directions.  They direct you around the corner, demand money (mostly not much), and then you are picked up by their friends who send you around the corner and back in their direction for a few more dirham.  So around and around in circles you go, but the city was really interesting and what you expect Marrakesh to be.  After an hour or so, we though we were close to our destination and decided to have dinner (with no alcool).  We got the final directions from our waiter for free and set off towards all the chanting and music.
Full of excitement we went looking for the snake charmers and jugglers, but were disappointed, as we worked into the crowds surrounding each act, it was mainly musicians (and general idiots) whose lyrics we couldn't understand.  So Matt & I headed into the Market to do some serious shopping, but could not find anything that took our fancy (same, same) and I have not learnt the art of bargaining yet.  So after a few hours we got a cab back to the Riad, but he was only able to drop us in the vicinity, as traffic does not fit in the laneways.  So we start the kids? escort experience again, only they also didn?t know the address we were looking for and took us to the wrong street.  We started with 1 kid but by the time we (not our escorts) eventually found it, we had 6 kids and a Drunken man all blocking the entrance and demanding money.  The night watchman came to our rescue, opened the door and paid off the crowd.  (We reimbursed him)  Although Marrakesh is real Morocco as opposed to Agidir, we decided that one night was enough and we would drive back via Essaouria. 
We had breakfast on the rooftop terrace, the night watchman walked us back to our car past the market, and Tim left for the Airport and his flight home.  We somehow managed to navigate our way out off the old city and eventually back to the main road and onto Essaouria.